For a while I’ve wanted a camp-collared/convertible-collared button-up shirt. The whim became a mania when I saw this pin –
For the record, I didn’t totally Single White Female her. I already had that haircut. Ahem. I loved the lie-flat collar and cuffed sleeves (all details that remind me either of sixties Bad Teens or forties land girls). In my pattern stash I already had the Grainline Archer, which I used for the sleeve (just cropped and hemmed), yoke, back, and pocket. I also used the front right piece (the one without the grown-on button band) for both fronts, though I may have whacked a little extra seam allowance unscientifically onto the center front.
My traced Archer pattern already had two inches added to the length – I don’t need it for my body length but I like the extra for tying the shirt fronts together. For the collar and front facings, I referenced the shape of those pieces from the Colette Negroni (also already in my stash), though I shrunk the collar slightly. I also redrafted it to be one piece, using this Sew Maris tutorial, and I LOVE how easy and tidy it is to sew.
I topstitched my facings down because topstitching is one of my favorite parts of sewing, and because buttoned shirts activate the part of my brain that says “ENCLOSE EVERYTHING”. The curved part of the stitching line, where the facing meets the shoulder, is more or less hidden by the rolled lapel. Everything inside is French-seamed except for the armscye, which I serged and topstitched (“NEARLY EVERYTHING”). I’ve only made the Archer a couple times, in crisper fabric, but I really prefer it in this relaxed linen/rayon blend – the shoulder seam sits right on my shoulder point. I’d love to make one in flannel, but I’ve been telling myself that for…four or five years? I will believe it when I see it.
I also topstitched the inverted box pleat down for a couple inches. Because I would do anything for topstitching, including that. Oh I also drafted hem facings instead of turning and stitching, and topstitched those too, because…I think you know.
The buttons are cheap-o plastic from Michael’s, but I have extras if any break (one already did when I attempted to attach it by machine), and I think they match the inspiration image pretty well!
There’s a couple changes I could make – first, I could narrow and slightly shorten the collar. Also, I could use more space for my extravagant hips, though I tie the shirt up anyway. And if the “button bands” were wider I would not criticize or complain. But I love this shirt! I’m so proud of the changes I made, I am fully obsessed with the fabric, and I love wearing it with shorts or jeans. I’m not experienced in drafting but I’ve had some success at combining patterns, and since I have a pretty substantial pattern library at this point it feels like a choose-your-own-adventure story! Where I almost never get eaten by scarab beetles!
I’ll leave you with these details – my perfectly-coordinated pin is by illustrator Eloise Narrigan (currently sold out, but she releases a new adorable pin every so often!).
And perhaps you are interested in seeing me move it, move it?
Thank you to my patient and collaborative boyfriend for these pictures.
Pattern: modified Grainline Archer + Colette Negroni
Pattern cost: N/A (I only count the cost the first time I use a pattern)
Size: 8 at bust, graded to 12 at hip
Supplies: 2 yards of Robert Kaufman Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen Blend Yarn Dye in Redrock, $22; thread, $1.79; buttons, $1.79, Michael’s
Total time: 7.5 hours
Total cost: $25.58