“What do you call those?” my boyfriend asked.
I was blind to the virtues of the Morgan jeans for a while (except for the regular Closet Case virtues of excellent drafting, clear directions, and a crotch curve that fits me like a dang soulmate), until I suddenly wanted mom jeans, and the only available pattern was Palmer/Pletsch. Really I wanted someone to have done that work for me, Mses. Palmer and Pletsch. And ideally that person would be Heather Lou, thus, Morgans! However, the rise on the Morgan jeans cuts right across my nice little tummy, and I needed to hike those bad boys up. So I took a page from Jasika Nicole’s book and added 2” to the rise at the lines marked on the pattern.
That’s 2” to the front leg (extending the fly length as well), 1” to the back leg (I moved the pockets up, too) and 1” to the back yoke. Not surprisingly, I ended up with extra space through my seat and the small of my back. Even though my back dimensions tend to be broad instead of bodacious, I still regularly adjust for swayback. It was a little tricky to go back in and do the surgery, since my seams were already serged and topstitched, but I adjusted the pieces like the drawing below:
Black lines are the original; red lines are where I trimmed. I removed about ½” from each side of the back center at top, tapered to nothing through the seat seam, and about ¼” each from the edges where the yoke and back meet, tapered to nothing at the side seams. I’m still getting some bubbling through my upper bum area. I might remove a smidgeon more fabric on my next pair. However, it could also be the way I went back into the jeans and adjusted everything – I may have stretched the seat out. Next pair will tell.
You can see the dimple of extra fabric here. Also the embroidery I added to the back pocket! This fabric was so much fun to embroider, sturdy but not tough; it’s the 9 oz. Cone Mills unsanforized denim in Mint, from Threadbare Fabrics (<3 Katie so much. I’ve ordered in haste before and she’s been such a sweetie about fixing my mistakes). The hardware is all from Threadbare, too.
This is my first pair of rigid denim jeans…ever? In my life? I sewed my first pair of unadjusted Morgans in stretch denim, because I was nervous. But the rigid denim is pretty darn comfortable! I like that they’re not clinging to my legs on hot days, and I’ve got a decent range of motion.
(Boyfriend/ photographer: “Do a lunge! That’s not a lunge. Okay, now touch your toes.” Me: “I can’t! My glasses will fall off!” #naturalathlete)
My thighs spread a lot while sitting, so they’re a big snug in repose. I could use another ¼” in the outer leg. Next time! And yeah, there’s definitely a next time! These aren’t traditionally flattering, in the sense that they don’t make me look smaller/longer/narrower, but getting tiny is not on my to-do list (even if it would help me fit in swants!).
My big rivet doesn’t match my little rivets. Ssh!
Lots of under-butt wrinkles, but I need them for getting low. Or as pictured here, getting medium.
Cuffs, of course! I remember how paranoid I used to be about wearing high-water pants in high school. Fashion, you’re fickle. We’re friends though. And friends never let low-rise come back, right?!
Pattern: Closet Case Morgan jeans
Pattern cost: N/A (I only count the cost the first time I use a pattern)
Size: 12 at waist, graded to 14 at hip
Supplies: 2 yards of Cone Mills denim, 9 oz., mint green, Threadbare Fabrics, $36; denim hardware kit, Threadbare Fabrics, $6; embroidery threads and hoop, Michael’s, $3.32; ½ yard Liesl Gibson lawn, pocketing, Gather Here, $4.60; thread from stash
Total time: 11 hours
Total cost: $49.92