And it was…okay. The pattern is free (!) and found here. I think the style is actually pretty impeccable (is that a self-brag since I made one?) but I didn’t really adore the process of sewing it, and my fitting is very so-so.
I genuinely love this fabric, a light, soft black-and-white ikat cotton that somehow just doesn’t wrinkle, but it was so soft that the 3/8ths seam allowances shredded easily. Not much manhandling or unpicking allowed.
I added pockets, but about 5” too low! They’re comfortable for my hands but visually they should probably be sitting on my high hip, not my thigh. However, I think the way the pockets gape indicates that my thighs needed the extra breathing room, so it might have been a lucky mistake. I cut the size that should have yielded me a couple inches of ease by measuring the pattern pieces, but it’s a close thing!
When I first tried on the jumpsuit I was really disappointed. The back gaped inches away from my body and the front was worse. It was loose, without being either easy or breezy. I needed to lose some length from the straps – eventually I settled on a whopping 1 ¼ inches from the front strap and a relatively discreet ¾ inches from the back. Turning the jumpsuit right-sides-out through the burritoed shoulder straps was nearly my Waterloo the first time, so there was no way I was going back in. I just tucked the excess under and stitched it down by machine! Thank you, black fabric! As you can see there’s a sizable lump on my shoulder now but at least the back sits fairly flush.
A note on the burrito method: wonderful in practice, a bit crap in effect, at least this time. I just couldn’t get the narrow shoulder strap to give birth to the second half of the jumpsuit. Eventually I opened part of the armscye seam to release the pressure and was able to turn the garment! I topstitched that opening shut, which was technically visible though hard to see, and eventually irrelevant because of the further shortening of the straps. Not my most notable success with a sewing technique.
Shortening the straps had a knock-on effect, obviously. The bust darts now ended too high, and the high bust area, as you can see clearly above, is simultaneously too tight and too long. I am stymied. STYMIED. No idea what to do about that.
Also, the zip now ended higher up on my back. I can get out of this on my own, but not into it, making this jumpsuit strictly a weekend garment! My coworkers are swell but there’s no one I have a zip-me-up-I-just-peed relationship with. I also added a button and loop at the top, since my zipper installation was too low and not right (sensing a theme?). I used this trick from Self Assembly Required for the loop!
Absolutely no issue with the body length though, even after my changes! So that was nice!
I cut everything on the fold rather than my usual habit of cutting as stingily as possible on a single layer. My bum appears to be having a conversation with Woodstock from Peanuts. IT’S FINE.
I wouldn’t make this again without some serious tweaks, but it could be a good way to grow my understanding. Fitting above the bust is a big ol’ mystery to me. Once I read some books I could maybe sew this again as a practical test of new knowledge. Later. Much, much later.
Dang it, I still like this garment, though.
Thanks for finishing this saga! Any tips on fitting the high bust area? Which fitting zones give you grief?
Pattern: Peppermint Magazine free jumpsuit pattern
Pattern cost: $0.00
Size: between D and E
Supplies: 4 yards of black and white ikat cotton, Etsy, $23.40; zipper, Gather Here, $3.00; thread from stash; hair elastics, CVS, $3.71 (and I’ve got a ton left over for the same use in the future)
Total time: 8.75 hours
Total cost: $30.11