Pair of Pant

As I am nothing if not susceptible to trouser trends, these are the Adams Pant from Daughter Judy. By the way, that’s one of the silliest uses of the fashion singular I know of (“Put your pant on, you’re late for school!”). They’re described as a “painter’s pant” (just the one) but the part that sold me was “generous fit through the thigh”. I don’t know if I’ve increased my landholdings again or if I’ve just become more aware of constricting thighs, but my Morgan jeans are not as comfortable as they used to be.

These were a low-stakes sew because I had the main fabric left over from an unblogged pair of MN Dawn shorts I made earlier in the summer. I was bound & determined to own brown shorts and when I found this unlabelled fabric in a nice cocoa shade I ignored its two issues: first, that I had to buy the complete remaining yardage (2 7/8th yards), and second, its suspiciously low price. It ran me $8.61. I took it home and did a burn test, but in my heart I kinda already knew it was poly-cotton. Anyway, I had a hearty chunk leftover, a little more than half, so there was never going to be a cheaper time to try this new-to-me pattern.

There’s three possible Adam pant prices to choose from, all of which donate 5% to a nonprofit. I chose the cheapest. As an aside, it would be fascinating to learn what proportion of buyers choose which price. Does the Goldilocks Effect still apply when there’s no difference between the three products?

Since there’s two back leg views, this pattern took a lot of printing! Otherwise there’s nothing too revolutionary in the pattern pieces, except that the back leg piece, instead of a single shallow concave curve from crotch point to hem, is an “s” curve. It’s mostly concave except for the few inches leading to the crotch point, which are ever-so-slightly convex. In theory I thought this is maybe where the thigh room would come from; in practice, it leads to a beautifully flat crotch once the inseams are joined. No stabby crotch at all. You could balance an egg on it. Props, Judy!

I was a little less impressed by the back pockets. I loved the idea of darted volume, but when it came time to turn the edges under, they were bulky, man! Undeniably bulky! I couldn’t get the stitching to sit pretty and I was hoping for a tip and/or trick to wrangle that bulk, but none was forthcoming. Ultimately I unpicked the pockets, darts topstitching, and darts, and just sewed them flat. I didn’t alter the shape, which widens towards the bottom, in hopes of keeping the visual weight similar, but on my butt it kind of operates like the trick-photography forced perspective shots from FotR and the edges appear parallel.

I wasn’t totally happy with the front pockets either. Function A+ mind you, they’re nice and deep and anchored at center front, which I like, but the finish isn’t elegant or sturdy. The bottom edge of the pocket bag is in places a single layer of fabric, which you’re instructed to finish with serging. I made the poor choice of a lightweight Ruby Star cotton so it looks and feels very flimsy. Also, you can theoretically see the pocketing while the pants are being worn, as the pockets pop slightly open by design. Next time I would choose a more robust cotton in a matching shade.

The zipper instructions were new-to-me but I liked them fine! They’re not the easiest instructions I’ve ever used – that honor as always to the CC Gingers zip fly – but everything lined up as it was supposed to, and I only had to unpick once, for purely aesthetic reasons. I used a nylon zipper because I had it around. Since these are lower-stress than tightly fitted pants I think it will be fine long-term.

I used the waistband width and length from the Daughter Judy pattern, but the curve from a many-times-sewn pattern, sadly no longer for sale, the Fern shorts. Mine looks wide so I suspect my progressive tracing and cutting added another ¼” or so to the final waistband width. It crumples like a sonofa despite interfacing, which means next time: more interfacing!

Apart from the curvier waistband, I cut a straight size 14. I increased the back dart intake ½” total each, and removed ¼” from the height of the side seams at my waist at final fitting (the side seam “rise”?). These are definitely not wrinkle-free (especially after the half-a-dozen wears this pair has gotten before these pictures were taken!) but they’re comfortable to death.

I’m a little interested in the current fitting trend monster, top-down center-out, and this would be a good pattern to try it on. I’ve also got my doubts – it requires a level of faith in a designer’s specific crotch curve which IMO isn’t always merited – but this pattern has a low enough crotch (I daresay a general enough crotch) that why not go for it!

I could definitely see myself making another pair of these in a nicer fabric. I am LOVING the thigh room (“Let my people gooo!”), and I’m a little intrigued by the elastic-back view. These are already completely non-restrictive, so the elastic must be really easy to wear. Maybe an elastic-back version with a longer hem for winter warmth + stew room? In the meantime, the poly content has not prevented me from wearing this pair, so it’s official: I like ’em!

And I like you!

Pattern: Daughter Judy Adams pant

Pattern cost: $14.00

Size: 14; used waistband from Fern shorts (size D); sewed pockets without darts; removed 1/4″ from side seam “rise”; increased dart intake 1/2″ each

Supplies: leftover cotton/poly twill; 1/2 yard of Ruby Star Society Moons in Natural Unbleached Metallic quilting cotton, $6.50, Gather Here; button, $0.90, Gather Here; thread from stash

Total time: 8.5 hours

Total cost: $21.40

13 thoughts on “Pair of Pant

    1. Yeah!! They’ve got a few classic-feeling designs so far – apparently the designer used to be a pattern cutter for Rachel Comey, so the drafting quality *should* be high.


  1. Oh, I see what you mean about the darted pockets — yes, I can see how that could get impossibly thick. Huh. Anyway, I’m glad you tried these out and reported on them because I’ve had my eye on this pattern. They look very similar to a rtw pair I’ve worn all summer and found very comfortable. You’ve alerted me to what to watch out for, I think I’ll give them a try. Thanks!


    1. I waffled on them for a while, but I’m glad I went for it, not least because I’m low on pants thanks to a big closet clear-out. I hope you like them!


  2. I just recently tried the top down center out fitting method, but with pants, oh sorry *a pant* (Waffle Patterns Azuki:, that I had already cut out so didn’t have the required extra seam allowance. Like you, I was also hesitant to trust the crotch curve, because I have a *lot* more in the rear area than the model – I usually have to add a couple inches in length to the CB back seam. While I’m still meh on the crotch curve, it did help me cure the “wrinkles in the back of the thigh that migrate around to the side front” problem I was having. My thighs are big, too, and I needed extra fabric and subtle side-seam gathering to accommodate them! One fitting problem solved, ∞ more to go.


    1. Fascinating! That’s not an adjustment I would have known how to chase down! I guess top-down-center-out is literally performed on a pant, as in one leg – was that challenging? I feel like sewing the crotch curve to its partner would have a meaningful effect.

      Also, were you happy with Waffle Patterns? I’ve been eyeballing one of their coats!


      1. Performing the fitting on one pant *giggle* was actually… easier? I could see where the crotch curve either did or did not match my curve and where it was off center. I remember thinking, “Oh, I wouldn’t have seen that if the crotch curve was sewn together!” But then it was hard to keep everything in place because as I said before, I had minimal seam allowances. Possibly the hardest thing was setting up two mirrors so I could see the back without twisting.

        Waffle Patterns are pretty neat. I made the Momiji jacket and wrote a bit about it:, as well as the pants (no pics) or write ups. I liked them for the most part. They seem to be well drafted, and I have to make my usual fitting adjustments, so I assume the sizing is standard. I wish she would include all the cool little details seen in the model garments in the patterns. For example, for the Azuki pants, the D-rings on the belt loop, and the contrast squares on the pockets are not mentioned in the instructions. If you are experienced, you can definitely figure it out, but it might be frustrating for a beginner. And in both the jacket and the pant*s*, I could not for the life of me figure out how long to cut the zippers for the pocket openings from the instructions – I had to wing it.


      2. Ugh seeing our own butts! Weirdly, that is the dream!! Someday it would be nice to have a fitting-room style mirror but without the fitting-room style fluorescent light.

        Thanks for the Waffle Patterns take! I’m looking at a fairly simple coat pattern so predictable sizing and good drafting are my top priorities. Too bad about the details though, I feel like so many of their sample are set apart by the details!


  3. They look great on you! And I love the color – a winning combo of interesting and practical. Looking at the line drawings, I know they wouldn’t work on me, because I’m such a pear shape, practically a triangle.

    I went ahead and purchased the Lekala Straight Pants (Sewing Pattern #S2002) – in my custom measurements. I got it on sale, but the full price is only $3.99.

    It only comes in an annoying PDF format, which means going to my local print shop to get a paper pattern printed. I ordered size A0 and I know from experience that their layout sucks. But I hate pasting a million letter size sheets together.

    I haven’t tried them yet. After I overcome some laziness, I plan to sew up a muslin to see if they really do fit right. They’re simple enough to allow for style modifications. If they look good, I would have a TNT (tried ‘n true). I’ve had some luck with a couple of other Lekala patterns, so fingers crossed!

    🙂 Chris


    1. Ooh, good luck! And I feel the printing pain – I have a VikiSews pattern for men’s trousers that I just can’t face taping together, so I’m waiting until I need (“need”) something else printed in A0 so I only pay shipping once. I’ve never tried a Lekala pattern, but I’m definitely intrigued. Of course I guess it assumes you do an accurate job taking your own measurements, which is a skill all its own!


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