Marry Bop Kill

I’m not a fabric stasher (#moralsuperiority #onlykiddingIjustdon’thaveanystoragespace) but I accumulate patterns like a ship accumulates barnacles. And like most ships, I don’t need quite as many barnacles as I have. I pulled out a few patterns I haven’t sewn yet to evaluate which ones to try, which ones to good-bye, and why. And I shall of course be rating them with the network-television-friendly standard, Marry Bop Kill!

1.  SOI Amelia bomber (OOS)

Pattern spend – $14.10

Requirements – ~2 yards shell fabric, ~1 yard lining, 16” metal separating zipper

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $20?

Rating – Bop

I purchased this pattern in 2018, I think? Or more accurately, I purchased an unwanted magazine in 2018 in order to obtain this pattern. I smashed the buy button because I liked that the waistband elastic was concealed; having never sewn a bomber, I’m not sure how easy that is to change on any basic bomber pattern! My cost estimation is so low because I’ve actually already cut the shell from scrap fabric. The thing preventing me from moving forward is buying a zipper – I can’t find one locally and with shipping I won’t pay less than $8, which is apparently my pain point, even though I bought a $4 packet of culinary lavender the other day without a peep and that’s like a tablespoon of smelly plant heads. Money is weird. I think I’ll make this once, though probably not until fall. But if it goes well there’s a possibility this one might get bumped up to Marry.     

2. Colette Walden bag (OOS)

Pattern spend – $0

Requirements – ~2 yards main fabrics, ~1 yard lining, a whole buncha notions

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $60 – 75

Rating – Marry

I got this pattern for free at an Artisan Asylum swap, and I can’t remember whether I cut out the pattern pieces or the previous owner did. Either way, it’s good to go! This is a perfectly nice bag pattern. I’m most likely to make Version 3, the satchel/bike pannier version. I have no current plans to make this but it’s a basic bag, so it’s not like it’s going to go stale; I just have to wait for bag fever to strike. I’ll hang on to this pattern indefinitely, so it can take awhile and that’s fine!

3. Butterick 5895 (OOS)

Pattern spend – $1

Requirements – ~1.5 yards fabric, 4 buttons

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $20

Rating – Bop

This is an old Gertie pattern with good reviews. Do I have an urgent desire to dress like a rockabilly sweetheart? I do not. Can I picture a scenario where that specific desire rules me? Sure. I traced the blouse pattern ages ago, but I might trace the pants too; I didn’t want clamdiggers until I read the island-life memoir Onions in the Stew and saw the author photo of Betty MacDonald (not that one, but she’s adorable in all of them, which is so frustrating because her visual and written adorableness is ruined by plain racism. The non-racist parts of her memoirs are irresistible but I can only recommend them as proof that racism can cohabitate with charm, and it doesn’t excuse or eliminate the racism, gaddamn it Betty!!). Anyway, my copy cost $1 because I got it from the clearance bin at Winmill Fabrics, back when that existed. Now it goes online for over $30 in places, woof!

4. M7936

Pattern spend – $5.49

Requirements – ~2 – 4 yards of fabric, 22” invisible zipper

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $25 – 60

Rating – Bop/kill? Black widow spider?

I pictured this full-length in denim with some hardware or maybe made from a dropcloth so I can wear it as a stylish coverall when I throw pottery* (*I have never thrown pottery and have no current plans to throw pottery. I have, however, watched The Great Pottery Throw Down). The short view is also a potential candidate for bicolor/vertical color blocking, whatever it’s called. There’s some v. v. cute versions to be found online but I remain reluctant. I’m not sure why! But there is a tide in the affairs of men which taken at the flood leads on to jumpsuits, or omitted all the voyages of my life are bound in separates. I dunno.

5. M6993

Pattern spend – $12.79

Requirements – ~2 – 3 yards of fabric, 9” zipper

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $20 – 70

Rating – Betrothed

I want to be a skirt person! Specifically, a vintage skirt person, i.e. a sensible but imperiled Agatha Christie brunette! It’s hard to picture wearing this while spotting students in and out of trees or arguing about yogurt, but maybe I’ll be weekend fancy. I really want this to suit me (hence Betrothed), but I’m unlikely to try until fall. I could see this in flannel or wool, hence the difference in estimated costs, because Gather Here stocks some pricey Merchant and Mills wools that are full cartoon-wolf-eye-pop beautiful. You know, this guy. But I have also rehomed nearly every skirt I own. I’m a leg isolationist! We will see.

6. M7726

Pattern spend – $3.49

Requirements – ~1.5 – 4 yards of fabric, 9” zipper

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $20 – 45

Rating – Kill

New rule: I can’t Google this!! Every time I look at this pattern my heart shrugs, then I see other peoples’ versions and I think I want it again. I don’t! Kill! Kill kill kill!! I think what I’m trying to say is, is there 12-step support system for giving away pants patterns?

7. Lisette B6296

Pattern spend – $1

Requirements – ~3 – 6 yards main fabric, ~1/2 yard binding fabric, 4 – 5 buttons, ~1 yard of 1” elastic

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $30 – 80

Rating – Marry

I haven’t sewn this yet because even the bittiest version (short sleeves and shorts) is a pretty big time investment. I can reliably find 100% cotton and cotton/linen blends at Sewfisticated for $5 – 6 a yard, so it really is time more than money. Though I’d like to make a winter flannel version someday, and since I’m a big Kaufman Mammoth flannel fan, that could get expensive. Owning this $1 pattern has already saved me at least $16, though, because it inoculated me against buying the CC Carolyn pajamas.

I haven’t traced this yet, which is a blessing in disguise, because it’s another throwback Winmill find. I have absolutely flourished in the years since then and that flourishment = nourishment; retracing it would be a pain in my ever-improving booty, so my past laziness is my present reward. Moral!!   

8. Thread Theory Comox trunks – click through for wilderness-flavored French postcards (I mean, it’s the official photos, but eyebrow waggle)

Pattern spend – $5.87

Requirements – ~1 yard of fabric, ~1 yard of elastic

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $15

Rating – Marry

Embarrassingly I bought the PDF of this a couple years ago, and have yet to even print the pattern. It’ll be, what? 6 pages of paper? Next to no fabric? I’m happy to make this for Professor Boyfriend (clearly theoretically since I haven’t touched it), but it is my secret heart-hope that I can make this pattern work for me. There’s a tutorial on the Thread Theory blog for a low-front-volume version but I’d like to try eliminating the pouch entirely. Again, so, so theoretically. I will now cheerfully forget I own this pattern for another year. Anyway, Marry. Is this a good system??

9. Peppermint patterns, generally

Pattern spend – $0

Requirements – as many yards of linen as you desire

Estimated cost of fabric/notions – $20 – infinity

Rating – Kill

Wait!! Listen! These are beautiful patterns. I want to love them. But I’ve printed and assembled the playsuit, the jumpsuit (twice, because my size changed!), the harvest top, and the button-up dress, and then I just tucked them into plastic sleeves and ignored them. Why? I don’t know why! But I am experiencing an outsize amount of guilt for ignoring these and if I don’t care enough to reprint a pattern why would I spent my time and money making the garment? I downloaded but haven’t printed the pocket skirt, and I feel much more interested in that pattern, I think because unprinted PDFs don’t judge. I did make the wide-leg pants twice, though! Also this should in no way be taken as a criticism of linen. Linen and I are very happy together. Even in-love substrates fight sometimes.

I’m sure I have more unused patterns lingering here and there, but these are officially on my watch list. If I don’t make these by the end of the year, blammo! They’re outta here! Given that I just make jeans over and over, there’s a real chance this is the last time you’ll see any of them. Except the pajamas. They’re timeless. And the bag, obviously. And maybe the Gertie outfit…okay fine! I stash patterns. YOU GOT ME! See you soon!

How I Don’t Buy a Pattern

…Until I do!

Like many of us, I looove new sewing patterns. I also looove keeping my money (dragon-style in a big pile would be top preference). It’s a push-and-pull. So, how do I decide if a sewing pattern is worth the moolah? Obviously this will vary – when I was beginning I prioritized instructions and pattern support. My current priorities have evolved towards fit and value.

Value is simple: does it have a few views, or if it has one view, is that one super classic and useful? For me, that’s the Ginger jeans. I only sew view B but I sew it a LOT. If it’s a rectangle or a circle with some pleats or gathers, is it priced accordingly, or does it offer something else? The Raspberry Rucksack is a draw-your-own-rectangles pattern, but I’m a bagmaking newb and the designer shared a detailed sew-along, so I’m happy with that pattern.

Next, evaluating fit! I’m certainly not a pro, but I’ve figured out some ways of looking at a sample and seeing if it’s right for me. I don’t expect perfection right out of the envelope, but I hope to see evidence that some specific fitting needs have been considered. Come pick a nit with me.

Let’s look specifically at the MN Curve Dawns jeans, a recent purchase of mine. I’ve wanted them for a long time, but I procrastinated. I’ve seen dozens of people look like Flaming Hot Cheetos in this pattern and I want that spice, but the samples have fit issues – specifically, mine!

Don’t be distracted by this gorgeous Valkyrie’s glowing smile. First alarm bell: of the 16 images that show the front of the pants, 10 of those are posed with the model’s hand in her pocket. In the straight sizes, you can see the front in 15 images, only 1 of which has the model’s hand in her pocket. To me, this feels a little like camouflage – probably concealing drag lines, which I’m guessing means, they (and I) need a full stomach adjustment. Next, look at the yoke on the back of the shorts. It’s too tall, so it’s buckling. I only see this happening on the shorts sample, but I’ve made that adjustment before so I’ll probably have to remove height there, too (if it was a darted back I wouldn’t worry about it; it has to do with the particular shape of my bum).

Now take a peek this beautiful cozy angel.

Do you see those diagonal lines pointing towards her inner thigh? It looks like the pattern could use an accommodation for full inner thighs! I’d want to scoop the back crotch to be more of a “J” shape, as the need for a full rear/hungry bum adjustment is indicated, too. And finally, the back pockets are far too small for my taste.

So, was this pattern a good purchase? Well, I got it on sale, and it has 4 views with the potential for everyday usefulness, so to my mind, yes. Even though a close-read of the samples shows me a list of necessary adjustments, if I pull back for a second they’re still gorgeous. And I’m going in with a sense of what I need to do; prepared is half the battle. I’ll get a lot of bang for my buck once (if?) I fit them correctly!

Okay, now let’s do tops! While these patterns aren’t on my I-wanna list, they do have nice clear images. I don’t understand upper body fitting very well, but there’s one thing I can check right away.

First, the CC Cielo top and dress – look at the bust dart. Way too high, right? Again, it’s not that these samples aren’t beautiful; I’m just looking for indicators that the pattern needs more adjustment than I feel like (even something as simple as a misplaced bust dart can stop me from buying something; thanks, #Smaughordegoals).

Compare that to the Grainline Uniform tunic, where the dart is clearly too low.

Especially if the pattern is simple, I want to see that done right!

You might notice all of these samples were sewn in the higher range of each designer’s sizes. Most of my standard adjustments are made for convex curves – full stomach, full thighs, full biceps – so even if my actual size fits in either range, I get a better read on how it will fit my body from what many designers describe as their ‘curvy’ block. 

Of course, I’m not always this particular. I bought the RTS Papao pants more or less instantly. I loved sewing and I love wearing my two pairs (so far!). But if I give the pattern sample photos the business, I can see room for improvement.

There’s some pooling at the center back –the model may need a swayback adjustment. However, I usually don’t (by the way: a lot of suspected swaybacks are actually butts or hips that need more space! Something to consider). There’s also excess fabric at the thighs (more visible from the back), and sure enough, I get the same excess on my pairs. But that’s a pretty short list of potential changes, and if I had let that put me off at the time, I would be a sadder and less awesomely-trousered person today. So contrary to my pro-fussbudget propaganda, sometimes it’s fine to just let things go!  

This might be completely self-evident to all of you. And listen, I can always find a reason not to buy something; this is good, or I’d be up to my ears in mugs and novelty baking pans and seasonal cereals and pristine notebooks and sock yarn I don’t know how to use. Okay fine, that life doesn’t sound so bad. But if you want look at patterns with a more critical/thoughtful eye, and this was useful at all, I’m glad!

Here’s a few more tempting patterns I haven’t bought recently –

The Assembly Line V-Neck Jumpsuit – it’s over $20, only one view, and it wouldn’t go with the winter boots I wear nearly every day from December – March. Also, many of the samples are sewn in black, so I can’t see what the heck is going on. But I like it. This falls into the category of ‘maybe I’ll buy it with a gift card’.

The Sicily slip dress – it’s so slinky and lovely and dreamy and where would I wear this?! Ever? Professor Boyfriend suggested “to a murder mystery party” which, WELL PLAYED, PROF. BF, but that’s a post-rona discussion.

The Soho sweater – hey, it ain’t boring! But I doubt those sleeves would fit comfortably inside a coat, and I don’t have a source for full-bodied knits, so the likelihood that I could make this, let alone would make this, is extremely low.

Fibre Mood Leah jumpsuit – I have a pattern credit for this so it wouldn’t even cost money! Plus its name is a homonym for my name! Is it destiny?! Or is it riding up the model’s crack? I probably won’t use several yards of fabric to find out.

Well, that got wordy. Next time, another finished object – it’s a straight-lines-and-rectangles kind of pattern, but one I definitely got my money’s worth from!

Planning 2

I love writing lists. You should see me grocery shop; there’s footnotes.  For sewing, however, I find the process more meditative than practical – I can write “white-button down” on an index card and peacefully release it into the universe, without any pressure to actually sew a white button-down. If white button-down loves me, it will return. But right now I’m going to plan FOR REAL, because I can’t sew, because my sewing machine is in the hands of another!!

Fine, it’s getting a long-overdue tune up. If you live in MA, RI, or CT, and you don’t have a car, I can give you the name + number of my guy. He does pick-up and delivery! I look forward to being ❤ reunited ❤ but in the meantime I’m getting my next few sewing projects in order. You could think of it as an itty-bitty capsule for an August day. Or the ramblings of a woman with no hand to hold foot to press. Whichever!

  1. First, itsa gonna be sleek. Itsa gonna be practical. Itsa gonna be a little bit boring. That’s right, it’s a – black bathing suit!

It’ll be a one-piece based on the Nettie bodysuit, but sleeveless. I think I can fudge the top using a RTW tank for reference, since I’m already really happy with the bum/leg coverage of the bottom. If I use a low front neck/mid-low back, I should be able to climb in and out without requiring crotch snaps. I also plan to use the banded finish without added elastic. This isn’t going to see a ton of vigorous water sports; I just want something classic and basic I can wear once a year for the next 5 – 10 years, which is about how often I go swimming.

I’ve already ordered and received this UV Compressive Tricot from Mood Fabrics. It’s hand-wash only, but I can commit to that once every 12 months. It’s matte, smooth, and has great recovery. Best of all, it’s got 50+ UV protection! Unfortunately it’s also sold out. Mood has other colors and some way more exciting patterns in stock – my personal favorite, these bananas.

But I chose something too basic to get tired of. Like toast.

2. Pajamas. I know, lounging was very April/May. We’re doing collective action now. But I’ve been wearing the heck out of my one pair of Grainline Lakeside PJs, and it’s about time I make another.

My existing pair is super cute, but I sewed them 5 or 6 years ago and my kiester has increased with my wisdom, so I want to size up for breeziest comfort. This is dependent on Gather Here reopening its doors to retail soon – at time of writing, not a guarantee – because I want to choose quilting cotton for these in person. Finally a chance to dip into the shelves of novelty designs! 

I hope to find something graphic and fun, like some Dear Stella and Ruby Star Society designs. Not these precisely, but I’ll know it when I see it!

I might adjust the rise of the shorts (above or below my nice tummy, that is the question). I’m fine with the itty-bitty inseam, though. It’s a perfect hot-day, get-home-from-work, cold-shower, smallest-possible-outfit outfit. (I know underwear is smaller but is it an outfit??!)

3. Swim, sleep…what else can one do in the dog days of summer? Romp, naturally. And for that I’ll need a romper.

One pattern I’m considering is the Salme Playsuit. I already own this, which is handy, because Salme the company is very much no longer with us.

I’ve loved and outgrown one of these already, but looking back at the pattern, it’s got an astonishingly shallow front crotch so I doubt it ever really fit right (I didn’t have any pants-fitting wonkery then). I’d want to adjust it before sewing again. My original version was in olive-green stretch twill and I could totally recreate it with a much better fit, but I’m not fully comfortable wearing short-shorts to work (says the echo of my mother) (she’s not a ghost, but I might be if she finds out I considered professional short-shorts), so I’m not sure this is the best investment of my time/materials. I do want something in the romper family, though – maybe with a wide cropped leg, for work + play.

I’m considering Manchester cottons. They’re light and soft and pretty darn cheap! One candidate is Leaf, another is Marmalade. A wise and wonderful friend pointed out that the word “Marmalade” might be what I find tempting, more than the color, but WWPD (What Would Paddington Do?).

I also love Kaffe Fasset shot cottons but because they have a two-tone glimmer (it’s seriously lush) I’d prefer to see those in person.  Dare I consider Sunflower, though?

There! Three looks for late summer! Depending on when my machine, a.k.a. Swamp Thing, returns to my loving arms, this plan may be delayed or altered. Depending, too, on how & when I can get fabric! Pretty much the only thing that’s guaranteed is the swimsuit, which I could sew on my serger if I absolutely had to (but I’m hoping not to have to). If and when any of this goes from theoretical to theothreadical (NOPE), you’ll see the results here!

Do you have any fun summer plans, on or off your sewing table? 🙂

Winter Coat 1: Inside

Nothing finished to show today, but I wanted to post some details about sewing my first me-made winter coat. Last year I decided that this year I would finally sew a winter coat. Late November/early December is not the most fore-thoughtful time to start a winter coat project, but in my defense a) my cherry tomatoes were ripening on the vine a week into November, so clearly winter would never actually happen and b) I was scaaared. Mostly b. I haven’t all the way stopped being scared, but I did get chilly, and that’s a great motivator.

My first choice was the budget. It’s $212. If you’re thinking this seems arbitrary, then yup, that’s numberwang! But it was the amount of cash I had in credit card rewards when I committed to this project, and it’s been a helpful number to limit spending in some areas but also encourage me to splash out in others. With my financials handled, it was time to start gathering supplies!

The pattern

Grainline Yates.jpg

Grainline Yates coat – $20.00 (picture from Grainline website)

The Yates wasn’t my first choice, at least not until my even firster choice was a sewalong that would lead me like a baby lamb to gentle pastures. Also, a collar that would keep my neck warm. So yes, my priorities, in order, were:

  1. The baby lamb treatment.
  2. Big ol’ collar. 

Yates it was! Also-rans were the Named Gaia (left) and the Schnittchen Joanna (right) (again, pictures from websites).

Both cool coats (and similar in some ways – boxy fit, wide lapels), but I really didn’t want a cold gust of wind smooching the back of my neck.

The shell

Navy wool.jpg

Navy boiled wool/viscose, Mood Fabrics – 3 yards, $90 (picture from site)

This was the single biggest expense, especially sight unseen (I couldn’t find anything warm enough locally). I didn’t order a swatch – I knooow! – but luckily the wool is very heavy, with a nice drape, and a gorgeous spongy bouncy texture. Unexpectedly, it’s got a pebbly, fuzzy surface. Can you tell? Maybe you’re better at analyzing photos of wool than I am! Maybe you order swatches! Um.

The interfacing

ProWeft Supreme MED.jpg

Pro Weft medium-weight fusible, Fashion Sewing Supply – 2 yards, $40.50 (picture from site)

This was my largest unexpected expense. Completely worth it, by the way! The Yates is fusible tailored rather than pad-stitched or anything like that so I thought it was worth investing in the nice stuff. And this stuff is nice – nicer than some fabrics I’ve sewn with, honestly. And at 60” wide, it’s not actually ruinously expensive. I bought this interfacing in charcoal to minimize any potential show-through. When fused it almost moves like skin. I know that sounds a little gross, but it’s really ideal – soft, smooth, moving flexibly with the wool. I promise this is not a banned French novel. It’s just really good interfacing!

I did a lot of internet searching to figure out the right weight and type of interfacing for my project, and I couldn’t find a definitive source. So while I’m not calling myself definitive, pardon a little SEO for other winter-coat newbies who might be making the same searches – best interfacing for winter coats! Right interfacing for wool! Medium-weight interfacing for heavy fabrics! Supple supple supple! (Eww.)

The lining

Spoonflower.jpg

Orange and monstera cotton sateen, Spoonflower – 2 yards, $19/$54 (picture from site)

Since I picked sensible navy for the shell I wanted to have fun with the lining, and these designs by Tasiania, available on Spoonflower, were irresistible. So big and bold and punchy! Technically the Yates pattern calls for a little over two yards of lining fabric, but I have navy bemberg in my stash for the sleeves, so I’ll save $27 thankyouverymuch. I chose the sateen because it was wide, smooth, and vibrant, and because while something slippery might have been a better choice I read one review that described Spoonflower satin as “sleazy” and could not unring that bell. Cotton it is! I don’t mind wrinkling and I don’t wear tights/hose often enough to worry much about static cling. Also, I had a $35 credit and got free shipping, so my two yards cost me $19 out of pocket (hence the two prices listed above).

This was my first Spoonflower order, and I had a minor freakout when the fabric arrived. The hand of the printed fabric didn’t resemble the cotton sateen in my swatch book, but the Spoonflower team was very chill and helpful and let me wash the fabric before evaluating it. It softened up a little and the colors didn’t lose any oomph. It’s definitely still not soft – I wouldn’t use it for a shirt, for example. The pattern is terrific though.

The interlining

I read about Thinsulate. I read about lambswool. I read about silk for trapping body heat and nylon for cutting the wind and Kasha for warmth. I bought two yards of black microfleece. What the heck, it’s warm and cheap! $15.56.

Muslining

I didn’t order a wool swatch but I DID sew a muslin ($8 for 4 yards of muslin), and it was a valuable exercise. I know this looks like a paper labcoat, but it put my two biggest fears to rest – would it pull around my hips (nope!) and are the sleeves long enough (yup!). And it alerted me to a huge issue, which was the narrowness of the sleeve. The size 10 sleeve as drafted is on my right arm, and the size 10 sleeve with 1” full bicep adjustment is on my left arm, and the difference in comfort is enormous.

I’m surprised at how similar they look in photos, but I needed that inch! I couldn’t fit a sweater-clad arm into the original version. And I’ma clad my arms in some sweaters this winter.

All the parts you won’t see later

I wanted to record the insides of my coat before they’re hidden forever, for similar coat beginners and of course for my own glory (*waves regally*). Despite choosing this pattern 75% for the sewalong, I haven’t had to look at it yet! Sewing the shell and the lining are both really straightforward. That’s even with added steps – the interlining, for example, which I cut and machine-basted to all the lining pieces within the seam allowances before construction.

Despite the thoroughness and clarity of this pattern and the instructions, I have one major bone to pick – the booklet asks you to pause after sewing the shell to try the coat on, and then sew the lining if the shell fits! Surely this is backwards? If you’re going to skip the muslin you should sew the lining first, right? Am I coconuts?

Thankfully my muslin was confirmed and the shell fits! I took narrower seam allowances on the upper sleeves, blending back to ½” at the armscye and wrist. Otherwise I just followed the directions.

Right side out shown, followed by inside out. Not only did I follow the directions, I made up more directions and followed those too! First, I catch-stitched all my seam allowances either open or in the direction indicated. No one said to do this but I figured it was so time-consuming, it must be the right idea!

I also sewed some homemade shoulder pads, but I couldn’t figure out how to adapt the sleeve head pattern piece, so I skipped that part. I wasn’t completely sure how to attach a finished pad, but I whip-stitched the relatively straight edge to the armscye seam allowance and then tacked it down at the other end to the shoulder seam allowance. The Yates coat doesn’t call for these, but I’m experiencing a kind of coat-related magical thinking. Do more stuff = better coat.

I also ran a small, not very tight running stitch along the edge of the interfacing, wherever it was applied on the bias, to attach it to the coat. It’s invisible from the outside and it gave me confidence that those crucial areas – the roll line and the back stay – would stay interfaced.

Wool is so fun to sew. I feel very loved by wool.

Here’s the lining, and lots more catch-stitching! I probably wouldn’t choose the cotton sateen substrate at this intensity again. Because of the tight weave and full ink coverage I could feel my needle punching through the fabric, and my stitches ‘float’ on top instead of sinking in, so something to think about if you’re ordering a very saturated pattern from Spoonflower. That being said: it’s fun, right?

I changed the back pleat to back gathers, as my lining + interlining combo was too thick to look anything but stupid with an inverted box pleat. It was like folding a cheese sandwich into pleats. I imagine it’s all very elegant in a single layer of shimmering silk, buuut New England. And I walk to work. So.   

Next: the facings, and then the bagging. OH THE BAGGING. It’ll be a first!

I hope my next post will be of the finished coat. I’ll include a time and cost breakdown there (sneak preview – lots, and lots).

Bye for now!

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year!

Are you participating in Make 9? I never have in the past, but I’m dipping my toe in with a Seasonal 3. In all honesty it’s not even all that seasonal! It’s just the next three (new-to-me) patterns I hope to make! Keep reading for planning (and budget options for similar patterns)…

  1. Marilla Walker Roberts Collection, view A. £7.50/around $9.50 American (though possibly subject to change – good luck to you, pound).Marilla Walker Roberts Collection

This has been on my to-sew list for a while, but the most concentrated downtime I have is over winter break (academic schedules 4 LIFE, except I also teach in the summer), so this will be sewn and tucked away in a drawer until The Sweaty Season. I already have the fabric for this, a cotton ikat I purchased on Etsy. I bought the last of it,  but I’m sure there’s similar choices out there:

ikat

Hoping to sew something similar? The Peppermint jumpsuit isn’t, at first glance, too much like the Roberts jumpsuit, but they both have dropped crotches and an easy fit through the waist. Plus the Peppermint pattern is free! You can see my Peppermint jumpsuit here.

  1. Ready-to-Sew Jean-Paul boilersuit. €10.20/around $11.60.

Ready-to-Sew Jean-Paul

I’m a little psyched out of my mind about this one. I first saw this boilersuit on The German Edge. I haven’t decided whether I want a structured fabric like Edina’s, or a drapey fabric like the red one from this pattern’s inspiration roundup, below –

Inspo

But I’m settled on long sleeves, so this can be my winter jumpsuit. I’m hoping to find a fabric I love in the spruce/ivy/evergreen range. “Do you…need…two loose green jumpsuits?” my boyfriend delicately inquired, a question with only one answer (“YES”).  I’m also hoping to get this finished in time to participate in the Sewcialists menswear theme month!

Some free options – this Mood pattern offers a fitted seventies silhouette (but caveat emptor – I mean, it’s free, but your time/fabric isn’t and I have no idea if their patterns are any good). And for a near-perfect match, try the JUMPSUIT! The JUMPSUIT is part of an art project I definitely have some quibbles with (they never talk about the fabric supply chain! At all! Also, does it fit anybody? I think maybe not?) but that article is well worth reading, whether or not you sew the JUMPSUIT!

  1. Peppermint wide-leg pants. ZERO SMACKERS, BABY. These ARE the free option!

Peppermint In the Folds Wide Leg pants

I’m planning to use the directions from my Morgan jeans to install a button-fly. I have heard that it can poke you in the pooch when you sit down, though.

Potentially I’d like to make these in a 14-wale corduroy, maybe in one of these colors by Robert Kaufman.

I don’t reach for yellow clothes as often as I think I will but I just love the name of that third color – cider! And it would look pretty killer with exposed brass buttons! Mmm, ciiiider. Realistically either navy or ocean would be a better team player in my wardrobe, though. I love that petrol/smoky blue in the sample, too, and I wouldn’t mind finding something just like that!

You might notice that I’m planning to add a lot of blue and green to a closet that, let’s face it, has a quite a bit of blue and green already. I think that will be easy to do. The 2019 Pantone color of the year is Living Coral.

pantone-color-of-the-year-2019-living-coral-banner

And take a look at that first set of coordinates:

Pantone

Forest Biome? Beluga? Um, yes PLEASE. I can’t wait for these to reach the fabric world! I might not use coral itself but I am going to be a big piece of murky ol’ seaweed if I have my say, oh yes.

Do you sew out of season? DO YOU OBEY THE COLOR AUTHORITY? ALL MUST OBEY. Just kidding! But do brace for coral.